Levi's Vintage : Inside The Vault

Heddels take us inside the vault with Levi’s Vintage Clothing Head of Design, Paul O’Neill. In the video below, O’Neill and archivist Anastasia Fink show us their approach to the Levi’s spring 2016 collection, drawing inspiration from a photograph of the internal employees’ baseball team, “Elesco” which dates back to 1880.

Knowing there’s around 20,000 pieces in the archive, it’s cool to see how the guys catch a vibe and that then dictates the direction for each collection. There’s an authenticity to the way they breathe new life into old pieces and that’s captured here. Take five and check out the clip for a more in-depth look.


Flippin' Fashion

I actually never intended to commit any pixel real estate to what this piece is about but today, whilst doing my rounds on the internets, I saw the proverbial straw that broke the camel’s back. Dramatic, I know. I’m pretty sure anyone, whether you’re interested in style or not will have some sort of an opinion on this, and most likely it’ll be an opinion shared by majority. The sane people.

With this backdrop, I’m essentially talking about cultural appropriation. That would be in reference to a couple of “high fashion” luxury brands out there packaging it as some sort of exclusive must have item. So if that peaks your interest at all, read on.

So, that term, cultural appropriation. The adoption or use of elements of one culture by members of a different culture. Ultimately, it’s seen as quite controversial practice as generally the assimilation of multiple cultures is risky business and might be viewed as exploitative or disrespectful. So, keep that in mind when you read about what made me want to get some words down about these brands. 

Vetements is the Paris fashion collective responsible for the main gripe at the root of this article. With the gentleman at the helm having ties with the likes of Gucci, Balenciaga, Margiela and Louis Vuitton you can expect the garments in question are going to cost a lot of money. At this point, it’d be great if you could scroll down to the two images below. That’s right, it’s Snoopy D-O-double G’s glorious mug from the early 90’s, adorning a T-shirt. Okay, so, the one on the left (top) is from Vetements and will run you approximately £650.

The one on the right (bottom) is actually a vintage tee which, if you found it, would simply run you the thrift store cost, or perhaps a little more at a vintage consignment store. So what’s the problem? Well aside from the insane price point, what we’re looking at is basically the same design. Of course, Vetements will say the mark up is due to the cut of the fabric, sourcing materials and exclusivity. It’s hard to buy that though right? This is a t shirt after all. 

And just to give the angle that supports what they’re at, look no further than the infamous DHL t shirt. If you haven’t seen one, and you’re chomping at the bit to pick one up, well you’re in luck, but only if you’re a size XS. Crazily, this t shirt, at £185 has all but sold out online and in pretty much every bricks and mortar location they’re hanging in. They’re nailing supply and demand it would seem. Perhaps it's something that only people with the sort of cash to drop on this stuff without caring will get.

But the idea, in a creative sense, seems hilariously stale and lack lustre to me. It’s like an ridiculously expensive joke. Of course, other brands have subverted logos or been playful with the representation of their own to mimic corporations and the like. Take a look a the Coca Cola box logo or this Palace Panasonic flip. There is a subversive quality to the design language/result here that’s both humorous and remains accessible. Equally, they don’t call image rights into question which is a plus as well. There’s a merit in it that. Just toeing the line and having fun. That’s gone a miss at Vetements.

I’m not sure they’re the first to do it though. Fear of God, a label steered by Jerry Lorenzo leans heavily on the idea of re appropriation. His Resurrection line of t shirts were basically vintage punk/heavy metal band shirts that he re branded with Fear of God. I sure there was an element of selection. An actual effort to source and subvert the origin of design. But I’m equally sure any one wearing OG Metallica, Sepultura and Nirvana t shirts would see guys wearing Fear of God designs and question what exactly happened culturally in the past couple of years.

There’s a sort of exploitation in that. A dilution of culture. Maybe that doesn’t matter to most people who don’t think twice about what clothes they throw on each day. But these things hold importance. And you can bet 90% of the guys wearing this stuff haven’t got the faintest clue when it comes to the kind of music they’re supposedly representing. 

The spheres of influence collide and the outcome is kind of messed up. At the minute the kind of consumer making these designs sell out is holding the head steady as the brands milk the cow. I’m intrigued to see the bubble bursting on this sort of thing but it’ll most likely move on to the next hype. Cheers for reading if you got this far.

Lines & Current : Working Hard To Keep It Simple*

Rebekah.jpg

Rebekah Johanson is the founder and proprietor of Lines & Current, a brand that focuses on quality headwear, eyewear and jewellery. I briefly met Rebekah at the Scandinavian Christmas Market hosted at Kaffe O a couple of weeks ago and having dabbled with apparel before, was intrigued to know more about her lifestyle orientated brand. Where it all began, how it has grown, collaboration and the future.  


This conversation was recorded in LOFT as Rebekah prepared to ship off the final orders for Christmas. We talked about inspiration, process, ethos and the day to day for Lines & Current.


DB: Where does the name Lines And Current come from?

RJ: Okay, well with the whole business, I know for me, I want to inspire people to do something that's like, " Working hard to keep it simple." That's the tag line, it's not mine or anything but it's brilliant! That really is the essence because I'm so messy, probably a little bit like you on the artistic end where it's not second nature to me to keep life simple but I know, maybe because of my stage in life, when things become cluttered and messy, I'm in a fog. With this brand, I want to inspire people to keep things simple and that's reflected in the word "Lines". 

Also at the start, I was doing a bit of typography myself, so the "Lines" was part of that. It has evolved over the year to kind of leave that because I've had to become Mrs. Business head, just to make things work. I have left the more hands on artistic side. "Lines" reflects that inner wanting to do something that's minimal. So establish your lines and then move onto the current. And "Current" reflects that more boho side of me and I think everyone else. Tapping into possibly the spirit or that generous side of people, that's where the giving comes in. It's like the unpredictable aspect of water, the current.

DB: So it's not like fashion lines and the idea of something being current?

RJ: Yeah, it's not about trends, that is unfortunate because it has that connotation within fashion.

DB: That's kind of what I thought, just that it might have a sort of duality to it?

RJ: I guess what I'm doing isn't really about trends, in fact, I'd go as far as saying it's not at all. It's more about finding what works for you, keeping life simple, then that'll release this space. When you de clutter, take that day to completely get rid of the crap, all of a sudden you have this new found energy, this soul energy to just go and play and do what's important. I find when you do that and you're not bombarded with stuff you can access that generous side and that compassionate side.

DB: So did that happen first and then that concept sparked the desire to make the brand?

RJ: Yeah, I have been through the process several times in my life, last Autumn for example, I got rid of all of my clothes and just kept the things I loved. So that was a few months before Lines And Current started. I call it the wardrobe diet. 

I think you can live in this tension of thinking, "I don't have enough stuff." I just lived through that and have gradually filled my wardrobe up since the with stuff that I actually wear and like. I found that the space that released for me was powerful space. I would have had to scramble to create the type of creative space that gave me. I know it's a little bit fluffy but you have to have something to start, to go with it. I've found that to be one of the biggest things for 2015, just start and then move and evolve. 

DB: Had you done anything fashion related previously or?

RJ: I did arts related stuff so I didn't go to art college like I thought I would. I ended up going to Canada and meeting a guy, who then became my husband. We came back here and I did a degree which combined the role of spirituality and the arts together. I used the role of the arts to facilitate spirituality. That's what I wrote a Masters in. I suppose Lines and Current is like a messed up version of that?! 

Whenever my kids both started school, that released some free time to start working with my husband who's a bit of a serial entrepreneur. So he's like dabbling all the time in different things, sometimes they fail and sometimes they don't. 

DB: What sort of stuff is he doing then?

RJ: Well he runs a property management company so that's the bread and butter. Then he started DIY property management and I watched him do this. He put all this money into a programme so that people could do it themselves. That's just one example. He's been doing a lot of selling online, for around four years now. I learnt that e-commerce world from watching him and then I became involved with selling products online. 

Last year we took a business trip to China together. It was a big deal because we hadn't left our kids before and stuff but something happened on that trip. Something clicked inside me and gave me some kind of intangible confidence. It wasn't like it was a product search or anything

DB: That's what I was going to say, it wasn't sourcing product or anything then? 

RJ: I actually missed the fashion part of a big trade show that goes on there every year. I was gutted, that's so stupid because it's what I love. Interestingly, it didn't matter because it was about the other side of it. In terms of the product, that all happened in the new year anyway. 

So that trip was last Autumn with John. Then in the New Year I launched Lines And Current with one product, the HETTA hat have you seen it? 

DB: Yeah, yeah it's sort of diverse, multiple ways to wear it...

RJ: I found the idea of that whenever I was in China then I guess over the next few weeks after getting home until January, worked on finding a supplier that could make it with the wool content. I got loads of different samples, found one that I loved and launched it with a Paypal button. It was scary just like, oh no you're taking yourself so seriously with your hat. (Laughing) With your weird hat. 

And you just do it. However many I had sold straight away, overnight. And then over the next two months, I sold 200.

DB: That's amazing.

RJ: Then I'd be seeing people on the street who I didn't know wearing them.

DB: That's the best thing. Me and Orla from Kaffe O chatted about that, it happened during our conversation a guy she didn't know had a Kaffe O beanie on at the bus stop outside the shop.

RJ: That's cool.

DB: Obviously your husband directly has influence with the business side of things. Are you concerned with following trends?  

RJ: My problem with trends is that it's so fast. That's not what I'm about. I'm about slow, because fast fashion is going to have a negative impact on the planet in terms of landfill. On top of that, the items are going to be produced really really fast and the people working on it, the supply chain, who knows how that will effect them? I'm more concerned with high quality. The slow fashion movement.

I feel like I can read trends reasonably well. I feel because I know exactly what I like quite quickly, possibly a little bit before the average person in that sense, that has meant I've been able to present something that people have engaged with and it's resonated with people. That Elska necklace and the Alma choker, sorry you probably don't know what they are?

DB: No, I do actually (laughing)

RJ: Well, H&M have them and I thought I was so ahead of the game, like, here's my designs. Thinking I'm presented something new to the world but I'm not. It's already out there but I have somehow absorbed those images from whatever's going on in this universe and brought it together into my wonderful design. It's already there but I love that because it shows what I'm presenting can just be something people like and want to buy. I don't have to be the coolest.

DB: Yeah, it's more lifestyle orientated in that sense. Well that's interesting, it's probably something we'll touch on at the end about moving forward but just seeing that it's mainly headwear and accessories, do you ever think that it'll evolve into making apparel?

RJ: I would love to, believe me. Whenever I was shaping what I thought Lines & Current would be, I was fascinated by the idea of the lines and the flow that is the current. I was seeing long, tailored, oversized jackets and that's what I was feeling compelled towards. Whenever I started with something that was only about 73p to post so that's how it got into accessories and one thing leads to the next, everyone loves accessories and the return rate is so low. I just moved with that and had to evolve my original idea for apparel from there.

DB: You assume responsibility for all aspects of the business then in terms of processing orders, shipping stuff out, contact?

RJ: Yes, I want it to be so user friendly. I want the customer to have a wonderful experience and come back. You could pay £100 on ASOS for an item but that £4 shipping fee sucks! (Laughing) Its the mindset I know because I'm a normal girl, I understand that. I want to free people of those annoyances in my business.

DB: So what other creative endeavours are you involved in then? Before we hit record, I mentioned the video I came across of you and your sister with the New Portals stuff. Have you always had an inclination towards music as well?

RJ: Always. I grew up with it and my brother as well is a singer songwriter. My sister Ruth and I were always...

DB: What name does your brother perform under?

RJ: he does a little bit. He's Andrew Briggs. He used to a lot but he does stuff here and there now. We've always had that singer songwriter-ish thing going on. We've always had that sort of creative yearning. I know everyone isn't like that because I'm married to someone who isn't that way.

DB: Even if you aren't terribly confident you kind of have an itch to give things a go almost?

RJ: Yeah, yeah...

DB: Would you perform with your sister then?

RJ: If I had time but I don't have any time. Maybe in another life, yes. In the best case scenario I'd probably be song writing. I love writing but it's the time and I can't do everything so I live through her a little bit.

DB: Vicarious musical life...

Photo Credit: BigBadLlama

Photo Credit: BigBadLlama

RJ: Very much. I don't know if that's terrible but I definitely do. There's no competition with us like genuinely I'm so happy with her success. I feel like she's with me too in that so I do live through her. 

DB: Yeah, funnily when I got chatting to you in Kaffe O, I thought Lines & Current was you and your sister.

RJ: Oh yeah people think that it is. Well, she is my photographer for a lot of things. My relationship with Ruth is such a treat in that respect, it's wonderful because I could get anyone to take photos but I want a lot of my photography to be faceless, I guess. I don't want it to be about me at all and I'm not being humble, I want the people to look at the pieces and say that's something I could wear everyday. Not, doesn't she look nice? That's not going to help the brand, it's not about that. It's not about the ego.

DB: Yeah, I'd agree and probably say in my experience if I've ever worked with my brother, and from what you're suggesting, there's a connection that's deeper than asking someone you don't know to take photos as an example...

RJ: Yeah and she's totally honest with me and that's not flattering. You know in ways that others won't know she knows me and will know those little intricacies that'll push it to the next level. Someone who doesn't know me won't be able to capture the product in a way that connects me to it in a good way.

DB: That sort of leads into my next question about collaboration pretty well. You've done more than a few and there's a little section on your site you can go through. What have they been like? Is there an online back and forth or is it always someone you know? What's that process like?

RJ: Can I just say as well, Ruth, my sister and her husband, in all their years in the music scene in Belfast, they have always collaborated and I definitely think they've inspired me to do it now that I have my own little creative baby. I've just seen how they've been able to generously give their songs to other musicians who then have success with it or bringing others on board to work on a song. It's just that give and take I really like. 

In terms of what I've done collaboratively, people ask you to write for their blog and I've done that. That's a no brainer. It's going to get people to your site so that's brilliant. Ben from Angel & Anchor did photography with us in February. I've worked with Aly Harte. A like minded girl, artist, of course we collabed together and then with Ruth. We just became friends, being at the same step of life, mums, the juggling act, complete chaos and mess. How can we tie all of this together? Let's make a hair ribbon. Ruth, Aly and I got together and we made these ribbon hair ties that I just really love. That product is so everyday, it's so functional and better than the average hair tie.

DB: Yeah it probably feels like should be there, it's not some outlandish accessory. It's simple...

RJ: Yeah, totally. And that community side really excites me. It's something that I never thought would happen but it has. Gaby Llewellyn is a writer who wrote a piece on Lines & Current. Then This Must Be The Place...

DB: Yes, I've seen their stuff...it's a cool site.

RJ: It's a wonderful platform. A lovely little vision they've put together. They're just celebrating other people, it's so kind.

DB: Yeah it's quite selfless. It's something similar to what we're trying to curate by talking to creatives in the city and hopefully pushing that further afield. Off the back of the collaborative side of things, how has Lines & Current developed over it's lifespan, almost a year now?

RJ: I had the little button on Facebook for two months. Every time I got a sale, it went through my husbands Paypal and it was just a nightmare. He would then forward me the email so I wouldn't miss it. So then in March started the online shop. And that's been amazing for me although the template I use can be restrictive but it serves it's purpose. 

I try to process orders three times a week so that people are getting it fast enough. I do that when the kids are in bed because it's not creative enough. It's terrible for mess I'm caught now in the stage of wanting things to be personal. So I write thank you notes on every single one but how can I sustain that when it gets to a certain stage? I'm okay with growing. Some people have said don't you just want to stay small because there's integrity there. Yes and no because I'm fine with taking on the world and if you do that, you can give back.

DB: Yeah I suppose that's the idea, you wouldn't have started it if you didn't think it would grow. It's almost a backwards way of looking at it. 

RJ: Yeah so that's the processing which is a few hours a few nights a week. But the mornings, because I do the school collections in the early afternoon, is all about strategising and trying to realise ideas. How do I make these ideas happen. It's contacting suppliers, designing... 

DB: Would you ever be comfortable handing over the reigns to someone else? 

RJ: Well yeah, I mean there are other things that are more important to me but I'm in the process of creating, I hope, a strong brand. What would be the point of handing it over to someone who doesn't really understand the brand. That would be silly. But I'd be happy to work with someone maybe a few years down the line...

DB: Yeah I suppose it's like you said before about having your own little creative baby and maybe you grow that to a certain point and you have to let go, or maybe what I'm trying to say is there is a good time for those things to happen. To leave something. We touched on the giving aspect before. 10% of profits going to a chosen charity...

[Rebekah's phone chimed with a cash register notification at this point indicating a sale]

So 10% of that will be going to charity (Laughing)

RJ: Yeah, these are Friday's sales. These people are living life on the edge right now trying to get things before Christmas. 

DB: How important is that ethical approach, having integrity in your brand, doing for others and not just yourself. It's very transparent and it's something not everyone does so it sets you apart a bit, I feel.

RJ: It's part of the miminalism that the brand represents because you only need a certain amount of stuff and then your life becomes cluttered. I don't need so much stuff, that's not what I'm about. I'm about living as minimally as possible so that I can release. I don't know if I should be saying this but I'd love to give way more than I do because once you have enough then why not give to others? That's what the "Current" is, and I think other people want that release too. We experienced that on the Black Friday weekend. Instead of giving our customers discount that weekend, for two days, we gave 30% instead of 10% to charity and sales were incredible! 

Peoples actually want a way to give but they don't know how to sometimes. I have found it really hard to choose charities as well...

DB: Who is your current charity?

Storehouse. I kept it local for Christmas and it was a bit of a risk because I want to extend into the UK market and how would that UK customer feel about giving to a local Belfast charity? I just went with it and they're having this night where they give hampers out to local families living on the poverty line. They're like normal families in normal houses and you wouldn't even think it would be their situation so it's really cool to be involved with.

DB: Yeah that is really cool seeing the more unseen side of it and helping that way. And what's that process like, choosing charities?

RJ: It's just that part of business where you go with your gut and one conversation leads to another and then all of a sudden, you've got a day to decide. I like to put something in every order, whether it's stickers or a small pamphlet that connects the customer to the charity. I'd like to be a lot more responsible with it in terms of delivering the highest impact. I don't know yet. I'm just finding my way as a go with that.

DB: I suppose that vaguely leads into immediate and long terms goals for Lines & Current? Do you have the next charity you have lined up?

RJ: I would love to know because January is very soon and I don't know. I have a lot of ideas with working with anti trafficking campaigns overseas, at home and possibly something to do with the Syrian crisis. I partnered with No More Traffik in March and April and that was really cool. I really think that's important.

I have a product idea to work with an Indian tailoring centre. I'm going to produce a design for them to make this product for me and then sell it here and it funds their women. So with me buying a piece from them, it gives them work and then if I can make it work, release some of the profit? We'll see. 

DB: In terms of product, are there new lines on the way?

RJ: I 'd love to but I know that the collection I have really works here. It's a strong collection so because the rest of the U.K. is still untapped, it probably makes more sense from a business perspective to just bring what I have to the unreached in the U.K. and Europe. I can't help but want to produce more because I'm creative and I have so many ideas. I really want to do a bag, I really want to do t shirts but I know that the brand is still in its infancy so it'd be wiser to go that way.

I definitely am bringing out a new jewellery collection. I have around 4 or 5 designs underway. What I do is wear the samples myself and make changes after I've worn them for a few months so there's a few going on. I'm not going to have a hugely cluttered store so once other items have sold through that will make way for new stuff.

DB: So where the best place to interact with the brand? 

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RJ: Instagram is where I'm at. I appreciate Facebook has been good to me but if you want to get me, it's Instagram.

DB: Cool, well I think we've covered everything, thank you!

RJ: Thank you!

Deadbeat's Lines & Current logo

Deadbeat's Lines & Current logo


The time has passed to pick up a piece of Lines & Current for Christmas but you can treat yourself by clicking through here for the New Year. Cheers for reading.

 

Restore & Repair : Filson & Nudie Jeans

In a similar vein to my last post, pairing off creatives who demonstrate the power of collaboration, this post will centre on a couple of brands with pretty ethical practices going on when it comes to style/ fashion. Those brands, Filson, a Seattle based outfit best known for their luggage established in 1897 and Nudie Jeans, a Gothenburg based brand founded in 2001. Before jumping into the great things these brands are doing we’ll establish some context for the importance of their practices within clothing manufacturing and beyond.

It’s been said before in the Style segment but “fast fashion” is more prominent now than ever before. What we’re talking about, is wearing clothes. Truly wearing them until they’re completely worn out. It’s something I remember growing up. We were never wanting for new clothes but when that football jersey had one too many pulls or your jeans had one too many blowouts, they’d be re-appropriated. Washing cloth, polishing rag, whatever it was, you didn’t simply bin something once it’s time ended adorning your body. The result of clothing becoming too cheaply made and made available cheaply at retail (save for particular brands that focus on making things well) is waste.

t’s hard to know what to do. Obviously, recycling is better than simply sending your unloved items off to landfill. I’m not entirely sure I want to know how many tonnes of methane gas are emitted as a result. Donate them to the Salvation Army or the local charity shop and they potentially become waste somewhere else. It’s impossible to escape the fact that clothes worn or becoming unfashionable means they’re thrown away, but maybe there’s something we can do. Something a little more ethical. Something that only means expending a little more energy and time.

Chris Hanson Filson Restoration Department// Director / Producer : Andy Mininger Editor : Arthur Allen DP : Julia Bruk 1st AC : Dan Fromhart Score : Ryan Rumery

This is where Filson and Nudie come in and I’m sure many more but these are the examples I’ll use because of their scale of operation. If everyone were able to implore some of the practices every so often it’d make a big impact. I think anyway. Filson Restoration Department manager, Chris Hansen details the process their second hand bags undergo in the video above. Tear, wear, fraying and broken parts are almost celebrated as the bags are deconstructed and rebuilt. The story of the piece, with its nuances, is brought back to life and it’s pretty beautiful. I don’t have to say much else other than to press play.

With Nudie, I bought my first pair (Thin Finns) a few years ago. They fit well, although I got them on sale as they were half price. (Paying £100 for jeans in University is questionable) I loved the simplicity. A five pocket jean with a nice taper and the signature orange pocket stitching. When I looked into the brand a little more I found out that they weren’t just your average denim maker. They had repair stores, around 20 of them worldwide now. Their model; Repair, Reuse, Recycle.

You have the choice of taking your jeans to one of these locations, request a repair kit, or trade the jeans in to get 20% off a new pair. The video below shows you what to do if you want to repair your own. It’s a pleasantly transparent way to move for such a big company and something that I think would be immense to filter down to the way we consume. Perhaps it’s easier with jeans as they’re made to be used and abused, or maybe it’s too romantic to think everyone has an attachment to their clothing beyond it’s utilitarian purpose. 

Repair Your Jeans // Music: Tre Trallande Jäntor Music: Felix Körling Text: Gustaf Fröding Arr: Bengt Hallberg Gehrmans Musikförlag

I don’t know if anyone remembers the “Class Struggle” episode of The Simpsons where Marge bought a Chanel suit to fit in at the Country Club? Probably too obscure a reference and I don’t want to get into class issues but the satire comments on how Marge is forced to keep altering her suit every night of the week. I’m not saying everyone should do that, however re-appropriation, restoration and repair might be the answer to this ever increasing problem. Hopefully you appreciate the little more than tenuous links I’ve mustered up here to encourage some thought on the matter. Otherwise just enjoy the videos above. Cheers for reading if you made it this far.  

Y-3 : Pushing Boundaries

Here’s our look at the latest Adidas Y-3 Spring/Summer releases for 2016. Decided to do some drawings deconstructing a selection of my favourite silhouettes from the latest range. Prolific Japanese designer, Yohji Yamamoto’s affiliation with the Adidas brand stretches over a decade now, Y-3 becoming known for pushing the envelope with high quality materials and conceptual design aesthetic. 

With my eyes turned to the past, I walk backwards into the future.
— Yohji Yamamoto

Yamamoto doesn’t care for current trends in fashion, lauded for his avant-garde approach, knowingly working to his own rhythm. He pulls inspiration from the everyday, the process, whilst striving to create something timeless. As a result, interest in the line has most likely been waxing and waning in it’s life time. My desire for Y-3 products, again, stems from the over arching monochromatic design language. Most iterations of Yamamoto designs have had this thread running throughout regardless of the materials implored or the particular silhouette on offer. The first pair I sought out were the Honja Lows back in, I want to say, 2008? They were a pair in all black, tumbled leather with suede accents. The shoes were stunning on and off foot. The quality of the materials, the hidden laces and sleek profile all justified the hefty price tag but alas as an art college student living on noodles, I couldn’t bring myself to fork out the £185.00 so I could leave with them. That experience, however, made me realise the value in well made, beautifully designed shoes.

The picks from the latest releases show how that appreciation has grown. The Qasa Highs, which as far as I know were actually a Nic Galway (VP of Global Design) design, exemplify this mix of innovation and high quality materials perfectly. That said, the Yamamoto stamp of approval is a big deal. Nic’s approach, much like Yohji’s is to look back whilst aiming forward. The tubular sole worked out by delving into some early Adidas archive designs. The success of this model bred the Originals Tubular Runner design, which shares many aspects save for the tumbled leather and waxed laces. There’s a nod to the ZX 7000 heel cage which saw a comeback in a big way with the ZX Flux. It seems like Adidas are giving every type of customer a gateway to their design by allowing this design to filter down.

Some of the other designs worthy of note, the Kyujo High and Low. The Highs actually come off like a couture level Crazy 8 which isn’t a bad thing at all. It goes without saying that the Pure Boost ZGs will probably make a big impact as there seems to be a peak in interest for any sort of prime knit/boost models especially when they’re championed by high profile sport stars and celebrities as casual footwear. I think it’ll be interesting to see how Adidas carries through with the Y-3 brand over the next decade. The possibility of increasing sales of this fashion led off-shoot is a smart strategy by borrowing design language for the runners you'll find in high street stores. You can click on any of the pictures to carry you through to a pre-order for the releases, due at the end of March. Cheers for reading. 

PALACE Winter Drop : Look book

I have shied away thus far from posting every look book some of my favourite brands have posted for their winter campaigns. I was however very pleased to wake up to PALACE Skateboards offering. Below I have selected a few of my favourite pieces. The subversion of some classic logos like the Panasonic and Thames Television nods is clever and hints at banal english upbringing and the brands roots. 

There's an expected sense of nostalgia. The Olympic rings, tri-ferg re-appropriation works extremely well surprisingly. 

The outerwear is arguably the highlight, the trench coat and bomber jacket with 3M detailing are really clean. Palace's last two drops have been the most extensive since their inception, crossing over more and more from skate to fashion, growing stronger and having more influence as they progress.

The drop goes live on October 15th. Click through to their store for the full Autumn/ Winter collection, where all bases are covered from puffer coats to pin badges, the collection is fully fledged and definitely getting better.