Style Over Fashion
This quick debut piece for the style segment of Deadbeat will look at what fashion/ style is in a very broad context so prepare for some schizophrenic writing and down the line, expect curated updates on new and interesting style, as well as interviews with designers and store owners to gain their perspective.
So what is fashion and what does it matter? For a large group of people, it means nothing. The way they dress is merely a means to an end. They wear clothes to serve a purpose. This mindset is applicable to both genders, through whatever list of experiences or spheres of influence, their consideration for style is not a priority.
This nature is perhaps most apparent in men, as the fashion industry itself, lends more to an extreme cyclical approach to clothing for woman.
More and more, however, there is a prevalence societally, in style conscious mentality due to the accessibility and dilution of style from runway to shopfront. Or for that matter, from DIY printing press to online store. The high street takes trends from fashion and trade shows season to season that filters down and becomes what we buy into.
This why I believe you can know fashion, but not have style. And thus, why it is of great importance in saying something about who you are.
So the title. Style over fashion. Style ultimately transcends what the high street is telling you to wear. Not every trend will suit you and of course, being comfortable in what you wear is a great consideration. Making it your own or perhaps, forgetting fashion altogether is a better way to look at it.
Interestingly, the way in which we buy into fashion has changed a lot in the past decade, with e-commerce becoming more and more prevalent. Perhaps, the fact that Amazon is now the biggest clothing retailer in the United States exemplifies this, an indication that people want to buy on their terms more and more. Bricks and mortar locations are a risk for many fledgling brands. A recent example, Band of Outsiders, a brand which rose to high end status, opening multiple stores, having celebrity endorsements and massive collaborations, ultimately failing because everybody got on their ship, and started doing what they did more inexpensively.
The upside is that clothes that fit well are so accessible now due to these types of brands that blur the line of high end and streetwear, bringing it to the fore. Silhouettes that can run into thousands of pounds from high end fashion houses are replicable for a couple hundred pounds. Ultimately, if you want quality garments, spending a little more is necessary, but you could see it as an investment.
Below, I have included and excerpt from Vogue in ’83, commenting on style which sums it up nicely, although you may not agree with the whole sentiment, it’s definitely worth a read.
“Good style is based on the confidence that comes from the positive attitude when you have the conviction to be yourself. People with true style exude self-assurance because they feel completely secure about themselves. They have an inner flair which gives them the knack for making whatever they wear look terrific, always exactly right for the occasion, never contrived or self-consciously perfect. They are the kind of irritating people who stand out in a room, not because of any outrageous clothes - in fact they often make others feel uncomfortably overdressed - but because of a special, indefinable presence. You often remember their personality or their conversation more distinctly than their fashion. It is immediate proof that there is far more style then clever clothes.The foundation of self-confidence becomes a springboard for originality.”
Here is a little rundown of some great brands to check out based on quality material and fit. Check it out and feel free to comment on your style ideas. When it comes to footwear, there will be a separate post on that. For those gents with a little more cash to splash, check out Redwing, Viberg and Common Projects. However, I’d say you can’t beat a classic pair of authentic Vans. For outerwear, a go-to is Carhartt; workwear ready garments re-appropriated as streetwear, sold on the high street and not necessarily breaking the bank. The more savvy shopper will go to Amazon to avoid the crazy markups so check out the Nimbus and Chore coats and the watch hat beanies are an essential. Another outerwear choice is Patagonia, slightly more pricey but ultimately worth it for the quality.
With jeans, go Nudie or APC, or as a more inexpensive alternative, get a pair tailored that you already own. Tapering the leg from knee to hem makes a big difference and costs next to nothing. For the everyday, buying some fresh grey, black and white tees every few months is all good or for graphic tees, look to the plethora of upstart clothing companies around for original designs. If you want to know where to pick up most of this stuff, head to flatspot for streetwear and thebureaubelfast for the higher end stuff. And topping it off, hit up charity shops for a mix of one offs and classic pieces, but don’t go overboard and look like you fell through it.
I suppose the summation of this piece is that if we really care about how we look day to day, like many have said before, it’s about wearing clothes that make you confident. That doesn’t ever have to entail spending shit loads of money, although there are many brands featured here that cost said "shit loads". It's really a question of whether or not you care. So with that, and the overall subjective nature of this piece, the crux is that you can completely disregard it if you desire but, maybe, just think about it.
The final point is just a jovial heads up. If you own a pair of UGGS, burn them. They are horrid. If you want some comfortable shoes that feel like you’re walking on air, get some Nike Flyknits, Roshe Runs or Adidas ZX Flux, or just wear no shoes at all. And once again, cheers if you got this far.
